Cufflinks Guide for Men: When and How to Wear

Wear cufflinks when your shirt has cuffs made for them, typically double (French) cuffs, and when the occasion is dressy: a formal office, a wedding, a black-tie event, an interview in a conservative industry or an important dinner. Choose simple metal or dark enamel links, match their metal to your watch and belt buckle, and fasten them with the faces pointing outward. That is the core of a cufflinks guide for men, and the rest of this article deals with types, sizes, how to put them on, and the mistakes worth avoiding.

When should men wear cufflinks?

Cufflinks belong wherever a jacket stays on and the dress code is smart or above. The most common occasions are:

• Business formal: a suit and tie in law, finance, boardrooms and client meetings, especially for presentations where your hands are visible.
• Weddings: as a guest in a formal day or evening wedding, or as a groom or groomsman, where matching links are a classic gift and detail.
• Black tie: studs and cufflinks form a set with a dress shirt. See our guide to black tie versus cocktail attire for the wider dress code.
• Special dinners, awards and galas: anywhere a dark suit is expected.

Skip them with casual shirts, short sleeves, knitwear, or when the jacket comes off in a hot room and you will fold back the sleeves; loose links catch on things. Wearing cufflinks in an office with a casual dress code can look like you are trying too hard.

Which shirt cuffs work with cufflinks?

Double (French) cuffs

These are the standard. The cuff is twice as long and folds back on itself, and both layers are fastened with the link through matching buttonholes. Our article on French cuff shirts explains the shirt in depth.

Single cuffs with buttonholes

Some shirts have a standard single cuff with a second buttonhole, so you can use either a button or a link. These are sometimes called convertible or cocktail cuffs. Overlap the cuff edges as you would when buttoning, then pass the link through both holes.

Regular button cuffs

These have a single buttonhole and cannot take cufflinks. Do not force a link through the fabric; if you want links, buy a shirt made for them.

What are the main types of cufflinks?

• Bullet-back (or swivel-back): a small bar or bullet swings through the hole and flips flat. Easy to use and secure. The best choice for beginners and daily wear.
• Whale-back: a flat, hinged paddle flips open to pass through, then flips back. It is sturdy and common.
• Chain links: two decorative faces joined by a short chain. They give a flexible, relaxed look and are a classic option.
• Stud-style or ball-return: a solid ball or knob fixed on a post, with a second face on the other side. Slightly harder to fasten, but very neat.
• Silk knots: two small knots of silk joined by an elastic or short link. They are affordable, relaxed and colourful, and suit less formal wear, although they are not a black-tie choice.

How do you choose the right style?

Metal

Silver-tone (sterling, rhodium or stainless) is the most versatile and matches most watches. Gold-tone gives a warmer, traditional look with navy and grey, and gunmetal suits modern dark suits. Match the metal to your watch case, belt buckle and tie bar where possible; our guide to matching tie and watch metals explains which mixes look deliberate.

Face design

Plain round or square metal, dark enamel, mother-of-pearl and black onyx are safe and formal. Patterned, engraved or novelty links are for personality, so let the design earn its place: one small, clean motif looks better than a cartoon character.

Size

The face should be roughly 12 to 20 mm across. Anything much larger looks bulky against a cuff, and anything smaller can vanish. Measure your wrist against the cuff opening, since links that are too big can catch on the jacket sleeve.

Colour

Take a cue from your tie or pocket square, or stay neutral. Navy or burgundy enamel goes with most suits. If the shirt has a pattern, choose a solid link.

How do you put cufflinks on?

1. Fold the double cuff back on itself so the two buttonhole edges meet edge to edge, sometimes called a “kissing” cuff. Do not overlap them like a regular cuff.
2. Line up the holes, and slide the link’s post through all four layers with the decorative face on the outer side of the cuff.
3. Flip or twist the back so it lies flat and cannot slide back out.
4. Check that the link face points outward and sits upright, so that people see the design and not the back.

The second wrist is always the awkward one, because you have to work with your non-dominant hand. Fasten the first cuff, put the shirt on, and then do the second cuff with the sleeve pushed up your forearm and your hand held in a relaxed, slightly bent position. Fasten the links before you put on your jacket. A cuff that is too tight is much harder to close; you should be able to slide a finger inside it.

How much cuff should show?

About half an inch (roughly 1 to 1.5 cm) of shirt cuff should peek out from under the jacket sleeve. The cuff should sit at the wrist bone, and the link should sit close to the wrist, not slide down the hand. If your jacket sleeve is too long, the link is hidden, so a sleeve alteration may help; see our guide on suit alterations worth paying for.

Cufflinks and the rest of the outfit

Cufflinks should complement the outfit rather than compete with it. Keep the tie, watch and links in the same metal family. Avoid wearing shiny links with a chunky tie clip and a large watch at the same time; choose one or two focal points. For formal wear, link sets with a matching shirt-stud set, in plain silver or black onyx, are traditional.

Mistakes to avoid

• Choosing links that are too large or heavy. They drag the cuff down and catch on jackets.
• Wearing novelty links to a formal event. Save them for casual dress days and parties.
• Wearing them with a casual shirt, or with a jacket you will remove and roll the sleeves up in.
• Letting them face the wrong way. The design belongs on the outside.
• Overlapping a French cuff. Fold it back to meet edge to edge.
• Forgetting to remove them before washing the shirt.

Caring for and storing cufflinks

Wipe them with a soft cloth after wear, since skin oils dull metal. Keep them in a lined box or tray, away from perfume and moisture, and store pairs together. Polish plated links gently, and avoid rough cleaners that wear away plating. Check swivel backs periodically, because a loose bar is easily lost.

FAQ: Cufflinks

Can I wear cufflinks without a tie?

Yes, especially in smart social settings, with a jacket and an open collar. Choose plain links to keep the outfit sleek.

Do cufflinks have to match my watch?

They should sit in the same metal family, such as silver with a steel watch. A small difference in tone is acceptable, but do not wear silver links with a bright yellow gold watch.

How do I wear cufflinks with a regular shirt?

Only if the shirt has convertible cuffs, meaning a regular cuff with two buttonholes. Otherwise, use a French cuff shirt.

Are cufflinks outdated?

No, they are simply an occasion accessory. For formal dress they remain a standard finish, and they are among the few places where a man’s personality can appear on his sleeve.

Ready to build the shirt-and-link combination? Browse men’s dress shirts, and check the product page for cuff style before you buy.

Edited by the ADDMPS Style Team.